New chapter in New Zealand!

I've been here in Wellington for a full week now. The kicker? I'm planning to stay for at least three months. It was strange to unpack my bags, knowing that I won't be packing them up again for a while. Liora Saad (another Paly '01 grade) and her awesome boyfriend, Matt, picked me up from the airport at 1 a.m. on Saturday night and brought me to OUR apartment. Yes, I have housing that doesn't involve bunk beds, cigarette smokers, binge drinking on random Wednesday nights or waiting to use the communal computer. Liora first came to NZ on a year long work visa (same situation for me) over three years ago, and has now established Kiwi residency. She absolutely loves life in Wellington and has acclimated to New Zealand life quite well! While she misses the GAP, Jamba Juice & Aveda products, she has adjusted somewhat seemlessly to NZ's relaxed and easy paced lifestyle- "island living".

Without wasting any time, I jumped right into job hunting on Monday morning- not because I was anxious to set an alarm & be liable for showing up at a certain place at a given time, but because Australia was expensive and I could barely afford to buy milk this week. Per Liora's advice, I had already booked an appointment in town with a temp agency she had used in the past. It felt strange to put on a skirt and cardigan, walk across town with an armful of documents, and then sit in front of a computer (typing/spelling/data entry tests) for a few hours. It felt familiar, but wrong; I'm not ready for desk work yet. Besides, there's plenty of that waiting for me when I get home. The next few days, I focused my search more on the retail and hospitality end of things. Ya know- the type of job that puts more emphasis on chit-chatting with locals and would be possible to accomplish with a hangover. Before you judge my rationalization for getting an "easy" job, let me just remind you that New Zealand produces some of the world's best Sauvignon Blancs and that just so happens to be my favorite white wine. I'm only thinking ahead and being realistic.

Water sculpture on Cuba Street

Beginning Tuesday, I'll join the waitstaff of Mac's Brewpub: http://www.thebrewerybar.co.nz/
Ironically, Liora took me to Mac's for lunch on my first day here in Wellington; its that kind of place- where locals bring their friends from out of town. Good beer, gourmet pub food in a laid-back but inviting waterfront atmosphere. Should be good. Unfortunately, NZ as a country doesn't typically tip their waitstaff, but this also results in lower service expectations. Overall, there's just a lot less "How is everything? Can I get you anything else? How is the food tasting?". Not mad about that.

I've also been thrilled to find out about FOUR potential visitors to NZ while I'm here! One of my oldest friends in the world, Virginia Levanas, is heading to NZ with her fantastic boyfriend Joe. I've hung out with the two of them a few times before, and somehow drinks are always involved. Drinks and lots of laughter. I'm really hoping it works out to see them while they're here! Also, my old boss from OMM (+ her new husband) in February, Victoria (CCPP) in December and possibly another- yes, another Paly graduate who I haven't seen in about a decade.

Window display in Welly

Life is good, Wellington is sweet, and this blog was totally overdue for an update. So there you have it! For the first time in eight months, I feel completely settled. A new job, a new cell phone, a new bank account, a new IRD number (NZ's version of SSN), and a new apartment. A whole new life.

The city of Wellington deserves its own blog post, so stay tuned for that. With the vibe of Berkeley plus the food scene of San Francisco, a splash of Venice Beach's street performing and a sprinkling of Seattle's outdoor lifestyle, its really no wonder that just a week ago, Lonely Planet proclaimed this city as the 4th Best City in the World to Visit (see link below). Either I have incredibly good timing, or good luck. Either way, its all good here in Welly!

http://www.3news.co.nz/Lonely-Planet-names-Wellington-4th-best-city/tabid/420/articleID/184146/Default.aspx

Thankful

It hasn't been the easiest week here in Sydney. A combination of factors- my funds have hit a painful new low (ouch) and I'm pretty sad (er- devastated) to realize that the "hard" part of my trip is basically over. I know; you're like, wait did I read that correctly? She's upset that the difficult part is over? Yes. I am. Being in Australia is so easy. Couldn't be any easier. I don't feel like I'm putting my mind and body to the test, like some of the other places I've been. The weather is comfortable, everyone speaks English, the food looks like it does at home and all of the TV channels feature familiar shows. Bo-ring. Aside from the possibility of meeting Seana Norvell in February for some more "hard" travel, it's been bothering me lately that the next five months (Australia & New Zealand) should be smooth sailing.

Junior year of college, I was enrolled in "Counseling 101", where we often took turns sitting in the middle of the classroom and allowed the nineteen other classmates to act as our communal Counselor. When it was my turn to sit in the chair, I talked about why I love to travel so much; how I love having the "sh_t scared out of me". I really do! But only when it comes to travel and exploration. Bungee jumping? No way jose. Riding Drop Zone? Nope, I'm good. But plunking myself down in a foreign land with only a map, a Lonely Planet and a camera? While most people would find that terrifying, I can't think of anything more thrilling and exhilarating.

I figured that this trip would sort of get the travel bug out of my system. Thats what I was hoping for, anyway. While I am looking forward to being back in the Bay, buying a Prius (hah!) and staying put for a minute, I'm not sure that this bug will ever leave my system. I mean, I'm still "traveling" here in Sydney, but I feel like I want more. Oops. Instead of extinguishing the travel bug, I think I created a monster.

While I've been interviewing for jobs and hanging out in Sydney this week, I've tried to deflect any feelings of "poor me" with thoughts of how MUCH I have to be thankful for, since there's plenty of that to go around. These past seven months have been absolutely incredible and among the people and places I am thankful for, here are just a few things that have helped make each day the best day I've ever had.

SKYPE

Without it, I wouldn't be able to see my parents happily sitting side by side as we exchange updates every few weeks. I wouldn't be able to see that funny eyebrow thing Mikhael does when he looks surprised or confused. I wouldn't have been able to take part in last Saturday's "Girl's Night" with four of my best friends from home. Skype is the best thing that ever happened to people who are away from home from long periods of time. And it's free! Double thank you.

ENGLISH

In any hostel, at any given time, English is being spoken. I can't even express to you how lucky we are to have our mother tongue as the default language between cultures. While on a snorkeling trip in Lovina, I was in a car with two groups of Germans, some Dutch and a two Spaniards. Without any hesitation, the conversation was in English. While I wish I was able to speak more than one language fluently (remind me to work on my Spanish when I get home) so that I could let other people be the ones using their native language, I am so thankful that English seems to be the universal language of travelers.

WORDS WITH FRIENDS

Constant entertainment, chat capabilities, and intellectual stimulation. By far the best App on my iPod & I am so thankful to have a fun and interactive way to stay competitive- I mean "connected" with my friends.

KATE

My sister is amazing. She responds to every email with lightening speed AND a genuine interest in everything I have to say. She keeps me up-to-date on everything from hilarious family antics to general Palo Alto gossip. She's always anxious for another Skype date, which makes me feel incredibly loved. She's shown unwavering support for me and my crazy trip, even though it means she's sans her best friend for 365 days. Our two week trip through Thailand together was more than enough to be thankful for, but I am so *grateful* for Kate Elizabeth. "You are my sunshine, my only sunshine". =)

How To Speak Australian

Sure, we speak the same language as the Aussies. But its hard to understand these people, at times! Below is a little guide for some of the catchphrases and slang I've picked up on while I've been here.

"Macca's" - McDonald's. The focus on the Aussie chains of McDonald's is more on fresh & less on fast. Higher prices but much better food.

"Cuppa" - Cup of Tea. Ex: "Would you like a cuppa?"

"Brekkie" - Nickname for breakfast and often spotted on menus (including Macca's).

"How ya going?" - How are you doing? In fact, saying "how are you doing?" is a dead giveaway that you're not a local.

"Good on ya" - Nice job. Well done. Congrats.

"Is that all you're after?" - Will that be it for you? Often heard at the cashier stand of a store or the end of a meal.

"Skull" - finish or "pound" a drink. Often used when referring to beer. Speaking of beer...

"Tinny" - can of beer

"Stubby" - bottle of beer

"Goon" - box of wine

"Hash" - the pound sign or the letter "H".

"Gorgeous" - Delicious. Funny how we use the same adjectives but mix them all up so they have different meanings.

Oh and newsflash: despite the convincing advertising campaign (see YouTube link below to refresh your memory), Australians do not actually drink Foster's beer. Most of them have never even heard of the brand! Heartbreaking. In other news, they really DO say "barbie" (barbecue), which always makes me laugh.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOOWbMIrYMo&feature=related

Surviving Sydney

Its been an interesting first week here in Australia. Within minutes of arriving at Sydney Airport, I was pulled aside at the Immigration Office and taken into a small room, where a very friendly but stern lady interrogated me about my plans in Australia. She "noticed" that this was the first English speaking country I've been to for a few months and asked how my funds were holding up. They are incredibly thorough with their immigration checks here! I assured her that my money situation was completely fine (total lie) and that I had absolutely no intention of working during my visit (even bigger lie).

Sydney is a gorgeous city and although I've spent my days trying to avoid spending money (aka, mostly eating off the McDonald's Dollar Menu), perusing Gumtree (Australia's version of Craigslist) and dropping off resumes all over the place, I have really enjoyed my visit so far. Australia reminds me of home in so many ways- its nice to be able to eavesdrop on stranger's conversations on the street; I enjoy blending in, since I could be a local just as easily as I could be a tourist- that hasn't happened since Germany; its nice to get directions somewhere and work with street names like Market Street and Elizabeth Avenue! Also, hearing actual (as opposed to extremely outdated) Top 40 songs in restaurants, bars and shops makes me feel a little bit closer to home. Teach me how to Dougie.

Coogee Beach

At the moment, I'm staying in a 10 person dorm at WakeUp! Hostel in the center of Sydney. I've had a really great time getting to know each of my dorm mates & love being able to say "Oh I was just there!", when they mention where they're from: Germany, Denmark, England, Finland and New York are all represented in Dorm Room 205. Most backpackers seem to have plans to stay in Australia for least six months and most of them (present company excluded) have work visas. I have no idea how the New Yorker got his work visa, since I was told over and over again that its essentially impossible for an American to obtain a work visa. In a nutshell, what I've learned this week is that Australia is shockingly expensive, my funds are dropping to an unhealthy low amount, and finding a cash job has proven to be a much more difficult task than I was envisioning.

Boxed wine = "goon"

But don't feel too bad for me; I have been having a pretty great time here, so far! My friend Ashley from Montreal (who I met while I was in Phuket, Thailand), has been living in Sydney with her awesome boyfriend Joe since July. They both work at an adorable little breakfast/lunch cafe in Randwick, which leaves their evenings available for exploring with me! They have been showing me a great time, including a minor run-in with the Australian police in Coogee Beach. Apparently its illegal to drink beer on the beach after sunset. Good to know! Saturday night, we met up in Darling Harbor for some fish & chips and then drank a box of cheap wine while watching the fireworks show over the harbor.

Fireworks over Darling Harbor

Despite far too many false alarms with employment, I am happy to report that I will be working Friday through Sunday at a Baby Expo at the Sydney Convention Center. Random? Yes. Hourly cash wage? Absolutely! On Monday, I'll head out of Sydney an into either a farm or coffee plantation or yoga retreat. Yesterday, I became a member of WWOOF: Willing Workers on Organic Farms. I was scanning through the listings of available locations and some of them sound so great! If you aren't familiar with WWOOFing, I'll let this article do the explaining:

http://www.smh.com.au/news/entertainment/good-living/woofing-a-howling-success/2010/01/25/1264267963953.html

My friend Melissa recently WWOOFed her way through Europe with her husband- check out the hilarious and informative blog about their experience! http://nortonsvault.blogspot.com/

I think WOOFing will be a great way for me to experience Australia, without struggling to afford expensive cities like Sydney ($30 per night for a 10 person dorm room? Psh, I'll pass), and I might even learn a thing or two about organic farming! Who knows, I could arrive home and be able to make homemade soap or clean a cattle barn or plow a field! And here I was, thinking I'd have a hard time finding employment in SF. So many perks to traveling, I tell ya!

More later. Its about 90 degrees outside and I have a date with Bondi Beach today. Cheers, mate!

Maura the Explorer Down Under

Halfway There

So it turns out, a lot can happen in six months. Two of my oldest and best friends had their weddings. One of my closest friends since sixth grade got engaged and subsequently, relocated from LA to Boston. Another one of my good friends bought her first home with her boyfriend. My sister and The Russian moved into a new house in the Bay Area. My sweet Sadie Lady (my family's dog of fourteen years) passed away. There have also been break-ups, career changes, new boyfriends & girlfriends, fun group vacations and plenty of birthdays since March 16th. This is officially the longest I've ever been away from home. In some ways, it seems like a painfully long time to be away; in most ways, it feels like the months have flown by.

"I met a girl who kept tattoos for homes that she had loved. If I were her, I'd paint my body 'til all my skin was gone." - Something Corporate

Since leaving California, I've been lucky enough to find so many short term "homes that I loved" along the way. One thing I've learned about myself on this trip is that I can get very comfortable, very quickly almost anywhere, as long as I have some friends to play with (and ideally, a beach to play on). There was the Evershine Guesthouse in Goa, where I became instant life-long friends with Cat from England and Alice from Holland. I had an amazing three weeks in May traveling through Thailand with Erin from Australia, who I met as soon as I put my backpack down at the Pineapple Guesthouse in Karon Beach. The highlight of the trip was probably my "home" in Vilnius with Asta and Ramune, where I was so warmly welcomed and driven literally all over the country to meet relatives and see the highlights of Lithuania. And then there was "Sin-ville" with my CCPP cohorts. Similar to the way I still feel about my fellow abroad students from Madrid, a unique and strong bond was formed during that month we had together. I'll always have a smirk on my face when I reminisce about the Cambodian chapter of my trip. =)

While I feel incredibly lucky to have had these mini "homes" along the way, nothing compares to the parts of this trip that included loved ones from my real home. Being able to share this traveling experience with my Mom, Dad, Kate and Jess was more rewarding than I could ever imagine- and I think it made them feel better about my "adventure" as well, being able to witness it firsthand. Also, the generosity of people like Caren in Copenhagen and Liane in Germany allowed me to experience some of the more expensive locations of my trip with someone I already know and adore, without breaking the bank.

I could easily go on and on about what an enlightening, happy, adventurous, fulfilling, surprising, sunny and eventful six months I've had so far, but I think this post will be best summed up with a few of my favorite memories from the past six months. Enjoy!

Celebrating Uncle Jonas' 80th Birthday with a room full of relatives I never knew I had (April)









Fourth of July/Buckets & Paint Party at JJ's in Sihanoukville (July)









Spending the day exploring Gili Trawangan with Jessica (August)









Black Moon Party (August)









Sunset at Angkor Wat (June)









Biking through German countryside with Liane (May)













I hope you've enjoyed reading about the past six months as much as I've enjoyed living it. Next Wednesday, the Southeast Asia chapter of this journey will end, as I head over to Sydney to explore a brand new continent.

One love,
Maura

Six Things I Now Know About Bali

1) They love and I mean LOVE Barack Obama. As the opener to a conversation, most of the locals ask where you're from. America? Every single time, their next word is "Obama!". While Barack doesn't have any blood line relating back to Indonesia, his mother did marry an Indonesian man and I believe he spent part of his childhood in Jakarta. But the way their faces light up when they talk about him is adorable. I'll take that reaction over Bush comments *any day*.

2) You'll never see anything more beautiful than a Balinesian girl doing a traditional dance. Jess and I went to a traditional Fire Dance Show while in Ubud and we were completely blown away by the beauty of it all. The finger poses, the foot movements, the facial expressions, the way she looks like she's floating on air. The make up, the outfit, the hair. Its overwhelming. Without showing too much skin or shaking their hips, these girls can completely captivate an entire audience of parents, backpackers, teenagers and little kids. If you're ever in Bali, make sure not to miss this experience!


3) Young Thai women are to foreign guys as young Balinese men are to foreign girls. Perhaps its due to the "Eat Pray Love" phenomenon going on here, but it's almost unbelievable to me how the Balinese men flirt with the backpacker gals. The guy who I've been "renting" a lounge chair from on the beach each day keeps insisting on "we go dancing tonight?". No. We don't go dancing tonight. And that's not only because I've seen you ask the other three girls who are here alone. It might sound more bothersome or creepy than it is, but overall, Balinese men seem anxious to show foreign girls a good time. I'll pass.

4) Each morning, I have to carefully watch my step to avoid crushing one of the hundreds of "canang saris" on the ground. Actually- they're not limited to the sidewalk. I've seen them on windshields, motorcycle seats, on the steps of a temple (that one seemed least out of place) and even on the seashore. Hindus in Bali believe that spirits exist in all objects and elements of life, hence the seemingly random placement of the canang saris. As you can see below, the base is a square shape, made from a banana leaf. Inside, you'll typically find fresh flowers, a small portion of rice or fresh fruit, holy water and a few burning incense sticks. These offerings are a sign of gratitude for the gift of life; placing the canang saris out each morning (and sometimes again mid-day) is both a duty and an honor for the Balinese.


5) Kuta is Australia's Cancun. Sure, there are stretches of gorgeous white sand beaches and plenty of luxurious resorts with upscale bars and inviting swimming pools. But there are also packs of Australian teenagers, drinking 40oz. Bintangs for breakfast and hundreds of vendors, selling the same ten pairs of fake Ray Bans in their shop. However, there are always pros and cons to visiting a tourist trap like Kuta; there tends to be an ample supply of low priced accomodation (huge plus for yours truly), and you can always rely on plenty of Western style food in a town overrun by tourists. Thanks to the incredibly authentic and very affordable California-style burritos at Mojo's Flying Burritos, I'm willing to let the pros outweight the cons in this case. Plus- what kind of surf mecca would this be without a killer burrito spot?
(http://www.mojosflyingburritos.com/)


6) You'll never sit next to a Balinese person on the beach. You might see them walk by or they might offer to sell you a bracelet or cold beer. But they are not into the beach one bit; ironic, considering the Indonesian coastline holds some of the world's most spectacular beaches. Perhaps its because *every day* is a gorgeous beach day for them. Why rush out to enjoy it, when you know it'll be there again tomorrow? And every other day for the rest of your life?

BFFs in Bali

I jumped out of bed (well- the top bunk in an 8 bed dorm room) with a huge grin on my face on August 29th. In only a matter of hours, I would meet Jessica at the Denpasar Airport in Bali. Christmas morning had arrived. One ride on the KL metro, one hour long airport shuttle and one AirAsia flight later, I was still beaming with excitement. At Customs, I paid the $25 US for the 30 day Indonesian visa, took my receipt and got in line for the stamp. Only one hour until Jessica's flight lands and then its best-friend-time all-the-time for the next two weeks. Too good to be true. Next thing I know, the Official who is supposed to be stamping my passport is telling me that there's no more room on any of the pages and that he cannot give me a stamp. Talk about a mood change. My perma-grin was instantly replaced with a racing heart beat and tears welling up in my eyes. You're joking, right? After all of this, you're not going to let me into the country? My mind was racing- ok so I'll just wait here for Jess and we'll tackle this together? Or... I'll talk to someone immediately about getting an additional page sewn in? Ya right- I doubt they do that at the airport. But this kind of thing must happen all the time... right? I quickly grabbed my passport from him and started scanning the pages. Not only had I completely neglected to realize that, in fact, most of my pages were pretty close to full, but I also had no idea that the Indonesian Visa needs an entire page. Eventually, the guard's superior gave him the approval to only give me a stamp, but we finally agreed on a small corner on one of the pages where it would most likely fit. Right after he stamped, I gave a huge sigh, and homeboy whispered "Ok, I help you. Now you help me?" What?! He's asking for a TIP now? I explained that I only had $5 US dollars left and didn't have any Indonesian Rupiah in my possession yet. He seemed pissed and threw my passport on the counter while giving me a "you're useless, now go" sweeping hand motion. Welcome to Indonesia...?

My thirteen days with Jessica were, as she would say, "money". We had the MOST amazing time together; basically, I'll refer to that vacation together as our honeymoon. I mean, after living together for nine years and still coming out alive as the best of friends, we deserved something on the honeymoon-level, right? In true "Jessica" fashion, she arrived with enough Sephora products & samples for me to open a mini beauty store here (Jessica works at Sephora's Corporate Headquarters in SF). Face masks, toners, body scrubs, body butter, perfumes- I hit the at-home-spa treatment jackpot. And speaking of spa treatments, during our first few days in Ubud, we hit the spa twice. My only other spa visit was with Kate, when I treated myself to my first pedicure on Koh Tao. We found rave reviews for Zen Spa (http://www.zenbalispa.com/) on TripAdvisor and treated ourselves to the two hour Mandi Lulur Treatment. A traditional body massage followed by a body scrub with turmeric, sandal wood and rice powder, an exfoliation of yoghurt to eliminate toxins, and a fragrant blossom bath. It was absolute heaven, and it was less than $20 US. Win. We went back to Zen again the next day, where I treated myself to yet another pedicure & Jess enjoyed a foot massage.



From Ubud, we took a minivan and then a speedboat over to Gili Trawangan. Out of the three Gili Islands (Air, Trawangan, Mino), we opted for "Gili T", since we heard it had better nightlife and a pretty good backpacker scene. We ended up at the lovely little Sunrise Pondok Homestay; the walk down to the beach was on a small dirt road, usually swarming with overgrown bougainvillea, roaming chickens & roosters, stray dogs and adorable little Indonesian munchkins. During the day, we biked around the island and found secluded beaches, cozy little restaurants and usually stopped at a happy hour on our way home. One day we went on a snorkeling tour, which was a blast- we found Nemo AND spotted an adorable and slow moving turtle! For the most part, we opted for movie nights in our room more often than beers at the loud Reggae Bar down the street, but we did manage to meet up with Vanessa Reid! Vanessa is a fellow '01 Paly Grad who is taking her "bar trip" before joining the legal working world in the Fall. New total is FIVE random run-ins with Paly grads while traveling. Go Vikes.


Jess and I ended up staying on Gili T for seven nights before heading back to the mainland of Bali to tackle the Waikiki of Indonesia, known as Kuta. Unfortunately, our "three and a half hours" of speed boat + mini bus turned into eight long hours of waiting around and then sitting in traffic. Be warned, if you arrive in Kuta during high season, book ahead. We walked around town for over an hour (with our backpacks on- ouch!) asking for a double room at every hotel we saw. Finally, we settled for a room that was so grimy that I even refused to use the shower. There were strange smells and odd stains on the wall and Jessica insisted we find better for our last night together. Just like she did for our first night in Ubud, Jessica treated us to a gorgeous hotel for our last night in Bali together, and we spent most of the day lounging by the pool and planning the rest of my trip together.

The good news is that we had an absolutely perfect trip together. The bad news is that it's over. When I said goodbye to Jess, the reality set in that I won't see another friend from home (unless there are more Paly kids on the loose in Southeast Asia, hah) until Kathryn arrives in Sydney at the end of October. Que triste. On the bright side, I think I'll head to Sydney in a week or so, and I have a few friends from my travels who are currently stationed there. Familiar faces! I'll take it. Once I arrive in Australia, I'll find a room and a paying gig and actually have a chance to stay in one place for about two months. I'm both thrilled and devastated. I love moving around and seeing new towns and beaches and people all of the time. Will I go stir-crazy in Sydney or am I about to embark on the most exciting part of this adventure? Only one way to tell, right?

Thanks for reading!

Until next time,
Maura the "I'm so legit, my passport is full" Explorer